Early diagnosis of disease is an important part of the overall goldfish care. If you can’t readily identify a goldfish disease see your local vet, or pet store.
Fish live by absorbing oxygen and they give off carbon dioxide as a waste product. Plants under the influence of daylight do the opposite so that what is poison to one gives life to the other. So adding plants to your aquarium will assist in keeping your goldfish healthy and disease free.
Prevention is always easier than cure, so by keeping your aquarium clean, feeding your fish properly, avoiding wide temperature fluctuations and performing partial water changes as necessary you will go a long way to keeping your fish healthy. However, no matter how well you maintain your tank, from time to time one or more of your goldfish may become stressed or ill.
Some of the more common goldfish diseases are discussed here.
Anchor worms appear as a 1/4 to 3/8 inch piece of string with a forked tail. Large anchor worms can easily be seen. They appear as clear, brownish-red, or greenish-white strings. Once the anchor worms have buried themselves into the flesh of the fish open sores may appear on the skin. Anchor worms may be visible in the sores. Frequently this parasite is introduced into the fish tank from aquarium plants, especially those taken from rivers or creek, or from adding live food to the tank. Anchor worms attach themselves beneath the scales of the fish where they bury their anchor-shaped head under the skin causing ulceration and distress.
Anchor worms are highly contagious and must be treated immediately. Your local pet store can supply an appropriate treatment for anchor worm, usually in the form of a gyrase inhibitor that can be added to the tank water. This should be effective in killing the parasites within three to four days.
Swimbladder disease should be suspected whenever a fish appears to have difficulty stabilizing itself in the tank. It is not uncommon in goldfish although fancy varieties appear more susceptible to this disease. It can be genetic in origin or caused by a variety of other factors including improper or inadequate diet, bacterial infection or even poor quality aquarium water.
Apart from improving the water condition if that is necessary, some fish keepers suggest feeding your goldfish thawed frozen peas. It is also worth feeding the fish with sinking food instead of floating food to minimize the intake of air. It may also be worthwhile moving your sick goldfish to a shallow tank while you treat it. This may reduce the stress on the fish. Swimbladder disease can often occur quite suddenly in previously healthy fish.
Dropsy is not a specific goldfish disease, but appears as a condition where the fish’s abdomen becomes swollen due to a concentration of fluids in the body tissues or cavities. The abdominal swelling often creates a pinecone effect causing the scales to protrude from the bod. The cause of the swelling could be any of several conditions including cancer, internal parasites or bacterial infection, cancer, internal parasites. Depending on what has caused the condition dropsy may be contagious. There are no known successful treatments for dropsy and the condition generally proves fatal.
Frayed or torn fins are usually indications of fin or tail rot if the fish has not been fighting. This is a bacterial infection that first appears as a whitish edge on the fins, before the fins begin to rot away. It is easily treated with antibiotics available from your pet store. Ensure the medication states that it treats fin or tail rot. In some cases a secondary fungal infection may occur. If this is the case, treat the fin rot before dealing with the fungal problem.
Fungus is usually a secondary infection. A fish with an open wound or sore caused from injury or disease may suffer from a lack of mucous around the area of the wound. This open wound can often attract a secondary fungus infection. Look for patches of grey or white fuzzy puffs attached to the skin. There are several treatments available for fungal infections from the pet store. Fungus responds well to quick treatment.
Perhaps the most common parasitic disease in goldfish is ick. It is frequently present in freshwater fish tanks and will infect fish that have suffered recent infection or those in poor general health. Ick is characterized by small white dots that look like sprinkled salt on the body. The fish may try to scratch the infected areas on the wall of the tank which can cause further damage. Cloudy eyes and rapid breathing can also be signs of ick. See your pet store for ick treatment. Badly infected fish should be moved to a hospital or quarantine tank for treatment but it is important to also treat the main aquarium, ensuring that the parasite has been removed.
Goldfish are quite hardy fish but there are still many diseases that can cause them discomfort or stress. If you want your goldfish to live a long and healthy life you need to make sure that you manage the aquarium properly and treat sick goldfish as soon as symptoms appear.
There is a comprehensive and instantly downloadable e-book covering the entire topic of treating goldfish diseases.
Filed under Fish and Aquarium Care by on Mar 25th, 2009. Comment.
The most important thing in your fish’s environment is the water. If your fish tank has water that is too hot or cold, too acidic or alkaline, or unbalanced in any other way, your fish could die. In order to properly maintain your tank and keep your fish healthy and happy, you will need to test the tank’s water on a regular basis.
You should start by checking the aquarium’s temperature with a tank thermometer. It is important to check the temperature of your tank because if the temperature is too high or too low, it can leave your fish vulnerable to disease. Since temperature fluctuations are dangerous to fish, be sure to keep your tank away from any drafty areas, such as windows, doors or heater vents.
The ideal temperature for your tank depends on the kind of fish you have in it so make sure you find out what is ideal for your fish. When you change your tank’s water or add new water to your tank when the water level is a bit low, you should make sure the temperature is about the same as the temperature of the water already in the tank. If the water is too hot or too cold, it may shock the fish or even kill them.
pH is a way to measure the acidity of the tank’s water. Since pH test kits are inexpensive and it is very important to be sure your tank’s levels are right, you should make sure you have a kit on hand for frequent testing. A pH level of 7 is neutral, below 7 is acidic and above 7 is alkaline. Most fish need the pH level to be around 6 or 7. Be aware that anything you add to the tank could change the pH of the water, so always run some tests to make sure the levels are ok after you add new plants, gravel or decorations.
Ammonia test kits are readily available in your local pet store or favorite online pet supply retailer. Ammonia levels are usually measured in parts per million and should always be at zero in a healthy tank. Ammonia in the tank could be fatal for your fish. Make sure you have a biological filter, as it helps prevent ammonia. Cleaning your tank and filter regularly should also prevent ammonia levels from becoming high.
Nitrite and nitrate levels should also be at zero to prevent your fish from dying. These test kits are also readily available and are usually measured in parts per million or milligrams per liter. If you have a biological filter and have high levels, the filter may not work properly. Clean your filter immediately and retest your water.
Finally, you should get a general hardness kit and a carbonate hardness kit. These kits are inexpensive and can be purchased online or at your local store. The hardness of your water depends on the water quality where you live. Most fish like the water to be soft, which is between 50 to 200 parts per million. Hard water is not safe for most fish. Since high carbon can keep pH stable, a carbon hardness kit is important, too.
Filed under Fish and Aquarium Care by on Jul 20th, 2008. Comment.