This anemone is safe for all aquariums–freshwater or marine. It is attached to a weighted resin-rock base to ensure “drift-free” placement in any aquatic substrate. The highlighted tips glow in the dark, creating a truly unique visual effect.
Filed under Anemones by on Feb 5th, 2010. Comment.
This attractive cichlid is silvery-gold with black, horizontal, blotchy patches on the dorsal half, and a black stripe from the eye to the tail. Females develop red on their bellies, especially when mating, and males have iridescent blue-green spots particularly on the dorsal half. Other semi-aggressive cichlids make good tankmates, though this fish can become extremely aggressive when spawning. Use discretion when choosing tankmates if housing a pair of salvini. Feed them a variety of foods such as a hearty cichlid flake or pellet, as well as fresh vegetables. Tank decor can be basic rock or driftwood with plenty of hiding places and open swimming areas. Salvini are substrate spawners, and prefer a fine substrate.
Filed under Freshwater Fish by on Feb 4th, 2010. Comment.
Freshwater fish are perhaps the simplest fish to care for compared to saltwater species as a result of they’re sometimes hardier fish. A basic aquarium set up can be required. You will want a tank, some rocks or substrate to line bottom of the tank. You may additionally want a filter, and a few lighting. When choosing fish, it is imperative to create certain the fish are compatible. Not only do they have to be compatible for water temperature and P.H., but they conjointly should have similar food requirements. Strive to keep the fish comparatively the identical size. It’s been said that if a fish is tiny enough to fit in another fishes mouth, that’s usually where it ends up. Therefore don’t be discouraged if this happens. Even fish that have been housed along for several months are known to disappear on occasion.
Freshwater fish should be fed twice daily. Feed solely a little amount which will be consumed within the primary 2 to 5 minutes. Over feeding could be a common mistake among novice fish keepers. Any excess food ought to be lifted with a net if potential, as it can become debris and quickly dirty the tank. Water ought to be kept regulated and tested weekly. Any discrepancies in P.H. and water temperature ought to be corrected immediacy in order to reduce stress caused to the fish. Stress is vital as a result of it causes illness in fish. It’s vital to observe the activity and overall well being of the fish in an aquarium. The signs of stress will be fairly obvious. Slow moving or lethargic looking fish will require a stress coat that may be purchased at a native pet store. Attempt to avoid overcrowding the tank. This could help to reduce the quantity of stress caused to the fish.
Change regarding a third of the water within the aquarium at a time, as a result of this sort of modification can cause the smallest amount amount of disturbance to the fish and different inhabitants. This can need to be done each 2 to three weeks. Use either a bucket or a siphon to get rid of the water from the tank. Attempt to remove any loose or floating debris at this time. When adding the new water to the aquarium, be sure that it’s at intervals approximately two degrees of the tank water. The perimeters of the aquarium ought to be scrubbed often to remove an algae build up. Again use caution to not disturb the fish. Wash your hands thoroughly before and once handling the aquarium. Lastly, check the manufacturer’s recommendation on filters and change them accordingly. Filters collect any fish waste or left over food. They can not perform properly unless they’re clean.
Introduce hardy fish to a replacement tank. These fish can stand up to higher nitrite levels that are present in a new aquarium. Opt for fish like danios, barbs, gouramis, and live bearers. Don’t add more than three to four small fish per week. Acclimation times vary per species, therefore check with your retailer before adding any different new fish.
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Filed under Fish and Aquarium Care by on Jan 20th, 2010. Comment.
The Elephant Nose is an interesting fish with a long appendage on its snout below the mouth that looks like an elephant’s trunk. Its body is gray to black with a slender forked tail. The Elephant Nose is a nocturnal fish, hunting and feeding mostly at night. It uses its long snout to help it find worms, insects, larvae, and small crustaceans in the substrate. It is important to provide smooth-sided gravel or fine sand so that it does not injure itself when looking for food in this way. Elephant Noses will accept most small live foods, but can usually be trained to eat frozen foods and sometimes, sinking pellets. The Elephant Nose is able to produce a weak electric discharge that it uses in courtship and in locating prey. This fish is relatively peaceful toward other fish of similar size, but is territorial and aggressive with its own kind. For this reason they are best kept one per tank unless the aquarium is very large, about 200 gallons or more. Provide a heavily planted tank with soft, acidic water and subdued lighting. This provides natural hiding places and will help minimize stress. Elephant noses are sensitive fish, and are easily stressed by poor water quality. Frequent water changes are a must to keep this fish healthy. Use caution if it becomes necessary to add medications or other harsh chemicals to the tank as many of these products are harmful or fatal to the elephant nose. If using medications, read the instructions carefully to be sure that the product is safe for scale-less fish. It may be necessary to use a mild medication or use a product at half-strength. This is a Restricted item and is not covered by our Arrive Alive 5 Day Guarantee.
Filed under Freshwater Fish Oddballs by on Dec 10th, 2009. Comment.
