Early diagnosis of disease is an important part of the overall goldfish care. If you can’t readily identify a goldfish disease see your local vet, or pet store.
Fish live by absorbing oxygen and they give off carbon dioxide as a waste product. Plants under the influence of daylight do the opposite so that what is poison to one gives life to the other. So adding plants to your aquarium will assist in keeping your goldfish healthy and disease free.
Prevention is always easier than cure, so by keeping your aquarium clean, feeding your fish properly, avoiding wide temperature fluctuations and performing partial water changes as necessary you will go a long way to keeping your fish healthy. However, no matter how well you maintain your tank, from time to time one or more of your goldfish may become stressed or ill.
Some of the more common goldfish diseases are discussed here.
Anchor worms appear as a 1/4 to 3/8 inch piece of string with a forked tail. Large anchor worms can easily be seen. They appear as clear, brownish-red, or greenish-white strings. Once the anchor worms have buried themselves into the flesh of the fish open sores may appear on the skin. Anchor worms may be visible in the sores. Frequently this parasite is introduced into the fish tank from aquarium plants, especially those taken from rivers or creek, or from adding live food to the tank. Anchor worms attach themselves beneath the scales of the fish where they bury their anchor-shaped head under the skin causing ulceration and distress.
Anchor worms are highly contagious and must be treated immediately. Your local pet store can supply an appropriate treatment for anchor worm, usually in the form of a gyrase inhibitor that can be added to the tank water. This should be effective in killing the parasites within three to four days.
Swimbladder disease should be suspected whenever a fish appears to have difficulty stabilizing itself in the tank. It is not uncommon in goldfish although fancy varieties appear more susceptible to this disease. It can be genetic in origin or caused by a variety of other factors including improper or inadequate diet, bacterial infection or even poor quality aquarium water.
Apart from improving the water condition if that is necessary, some fish keepers suggest feeding your goldfish thawed frozen peas. It is also worth feeding the fish with sinking food instead of floating food to minimize the intake of air. It may also be worthwhile moving your sick goldfish to a shallow tank while you treat it. This may reduce the stress on the fish. Swimbladder disease can often occur quite suddenly in previously healthy fish.
Dropsy is not a specific goldfish disease, but appears as a condition where the fish’s abdomen becomes swollen due to a concentration of fluids in the body tissues or cavities. The abdominal swelling often creates a pinecone effect causing the scales to protrude from the bod. The cause of the swelling could be any of several conditions including cancer, internal parasites or bacterial infection, cancer, internal parasites. Depending on what has caused the condition dropsy may be contagious. There are no known successful treatments for dropsy and the condition generally proves fatal.
Frayed or torn fins are usually indications of fin or tail rot if the fish has not been fighting. This is a bacterial infection that first appears as a whitish edge on the fins, before the fins begin to rot away. It is easily treated with antibiotics available from your pet store. Ensure the medication states that it treats fin or tail rot. In some cases a secondary fungal infection may occur. If this is the case, treat the fin rot before dealing with the fungal problem.
Fungus is usually a secondary infection. A fish with an open wound or sore caused from injury or disease may suffer from a lack of mucous around the area of the wound. This open wound can often attract a secondary fungus infection. Look for patches of grey or white fuzzy puffs attached to the skin. There are several treatments available for fungal infections from the pet store. Fungus responds well to quick treatment.
Perhaps the most common parasitic disease in goldfish is ick. It is frequently present in freshwater fish tanks and will infect fish that have suffered recent infection or those in poor general health. Ick is characterized by small white dots that look like sprinkled salt on the body. The fish may try to scratch the infected areas on the wall of the tank which can cause further damage. Cloudy eyes and rapid breathing can also be signs of ick. See your pet store for ick treatment. Badly infected fish should be moved to a hospital or quarantine tank for treatment but it is important to also treat the main aquarium, ensuring that the parasite has been removed.
Goldfish are quite hardy fish but there are still many diseases that can cause them discomfort or stress. If you want your goldfish to live a long and healthy life you need to make sure that you manage the aquarium properly and treat sick goldfish as soon as symptoms appear.
There is a comprehensive and instantly downloadable e-book covering the entire topic of treating goldfish diseases.
Filed under Fish and Aquarium Care by on Mar 25th, 2009. Comment. 
Choosing the right saltwater aquarium tank
There are some factors involved when choosing the type of saltwater aquarium setup. Including how much space and what environment you have other factors include the type of fish you want to keep and how much they cost? First goal is to buy a saltwater aquarium setup you can afford and will fit into your lifestyle and environment.
The first priority is to the comfort of your saltwater fish and any other species as they grow in your aquarium. The invertebrates and fish which will be in your tank require room to swim and grow but also need an environment where there is plenty of oxygen in order to survive. This is determined from the size of your tank. You can give your fish a great chance with the right saltwater aquarium setup.
One important aspect of your saltwater aquarium setup is oxygen. There are a number of factors that determine the amount of oxygen in your tank the main one being the surface area of the tank. The surface area on top of the tank which is exposed to the atmosphere above is what we are talking about. As oxygen transfers to your saltwater aquarium from the surface of the tank the greater that area is means there is more chance of oxygen transferring from the air into the water.
As well as taking in oxygen a large surface area for your saltwater aquarium also allows toxic gases like carbon dioxide to escape. The aquarium will be much healthier the more this process is allowed to develop. Water temperature is one more factor that determines the amount of oxygen it holds. The cooler the water the higher the oxygen content will be in general.
With warmer water tropical fish with temperatures above 75 degrees less oxygen is available. You may have to stock less marine animals if you do not have a large enough surface area for your saltwater aquarium. Therefore the larger aquarium you can keep the better it is for your saltwater fish.
Saltwater aquariums come in all shapes and sizes so how can you determine your requirements? It is the shape that determines the surface area not the size or volume. Because of its shape a tank can have less surface area even though it holds a larger volume. Tall and narrow aquariums will not have the ideal area for the gas cycle. The exchange of gas will be much better in a short wide tank.
With this in mind and your aquarium tank chosen, its time to move on to the inhabitants. Like we mentioned depending on the size of the tank will determine the amount of inhabitants you can keep in comfort. Overcrowding is one of the worst things you can do to your saltwater aquarium setup. Too many inhabitants in your aquarium can overload and effect filtrating efficiency. Stressed fish living in cramped conditions is on of the major causes of fish death, diseases and illness.
You should start slowly when stocking up with fish. Introduce only a small amount at a time. First calculate how many gallons of water your aquarium holds. For the first six months introduce fish at one inch per fish for every four gallons of water. 15 fish would be the amount of fish in a sixty gallon saltwater aquarium. More fish can be added after six months at an increase of two gallons for every inch of fish.
An example of a 60 gallon aquarium would be:-
Two 1-inch clownfish
One 1-inch Beau Gregory’s
Two 3-inch queen angel
Two 1- inch gobies
Two 1-inch blennies
One 2-inch Tang (surgeonfish)
Or any variables of these with your own favourite choices. After the six month period you can increase you fish to 30.
You may have to adjust the amount of fish you keep in you tank because when they grow they will require more space. Not only is the fish size an issue but also the shape. In an aquarium with heavier fish you should have a fewer number of fish inside.
{The development of your saltwater aquarium takes time}. They are not cheap to buy and maintain so do not cut corners. Problems will occur even when you have spent lots of time developing your tank. Make sure you have the correct aquarium from the start because it can be a little disheartening if you choose wrongly and then have to buy another one. Think before you buy, a small tank at the beginning is probably not the best idea. Before investing in you saltwater aquarium wait until you can invest in at least a 30 gallon tank.
The choices of saltwater aquariums are vast starting with do you get a glass or acrylic tank? Depending on choice it could be a reef tank already adapted for all your accessories? It’s up to you to get advice and choose correctly. One good starting point is silicon sealed glass tanks. The range is vast from unusual hexagonal and octagonal shapes to the more conventional rectangular types. Although more prone to scratching acrylic tanks are becoming more popular than the glass variety.
Acrylic tanks are much lighter than there glass equivalent. Large glass tanks are very heavy and hard to move. These tanks have quite thick glass. However a glass tank with a plastic frame is quite stable. Tempered glass is stronger but plated glass is shatter proof.
The popular option is an acrylic saltwater aquarium setup with moulded seems which are more transparent. One fault is that your view at the corners is distorted. Because of the material acrylic tanks can have even more shapes and outdo the glass variety with many more models. They cost more money and scratch easier which is a downside. Certain ornaments and decorations can easily scratch the inside of the tank and the same applies when trying to remove algae. The good news is that scratches can be removed using special kits.
Whichever type of aquarium you purchase the priority is the health of your fish. You need time to look after it properly and also enough cash to keep it in good order and properly maintained. Total relaxation can be found when watching your new marine friends playing in your aquarium. Your saltwater aquarium will give you much enjoyment and pleasure
Filed under Fish and Aquarium Care by on Jan 31st, 2009. Comment.
Adding plants to your aquarium is a good idea for several reasons. They are aesthetically pleasing and provide a healthier environment for fish, since they aid in creating an ecosystem within the aquarium. Live plants help provide oxygen for the fish and other creatures in your aquarium by converting carbon dioxide to oxygen through a process known as photosynthesis.
They also can absorb the ammonia that comes from fish waste, which helps prevent ammonia levels from becoming too high. Also, plants will compete with algae for nutrients in the water, which will help keep algae growth in control. Live plants are also a useful source of food and shelter for fish.
The plants you should add to your aquarium will depend on the water’s characteristics and the species of fish that live in the tank. You will need to do a bit of research before you buy plants to figure out which plants are best suited in your aquarium.
The growth and health of the plant will depend on the water’s hardness, pH level and temperature. Most tropical plants prefer softer water, but can also adapt to harder water. The majority of plants do well in water with pH levels between 6.5 and 7.5. Since the temperature of the water in your aquarium should be between 60 to 85°F (16 to 29°C) for the health of most fish, the plants you choose must be able to do well within this temperature range.
The lighting of your aquarium has to be just right to prevent the plants from having any difficulty with photosynthesis. Your plants should receive about ten to twelve hours of light each day for maximum health. If the aquarium receives too much light, algae will grow too quickly and become a nuisance. If excess algae growth occurs, it may be a good idea to purchase algae-eating fish for your aquarium.
You will need to purchase substrates for the tank, as these will help the plants to grow quickly and easily. Good substrates for live plants include Laterite and Flourite.
Aquarium safe fertilizers are needed to provide food for the plants. Depending on the needs of the plants in your aquarium, you’ll need to purchase tablets or liquid fertilizers. Tablets are great for root-feeding plants while liquid fertilizers are ideal for leaf-feeding plants.
When adding fish to your planted aquarium, avoid herbivorous fish, they just end up grazing on the live plants. To figure out where to place the plants in the tank, you should be aware of their mature heights. Based on that information, you should easily figure out which ones will be best in the foreground, mid-ground and background of the aquarium.
You should always put the plants into your aquarium before adding fish because adding anything to the tank may change the levels of pH, water hardness and other elements in the water. Before adding the plants to the aquarium, add some water, but not enough to completely submerge the plants. You will then have to anchor the plants securely. Fill the tank the rest of the way and turn on the filters. Check the temperature and run water level tests.
Finally, be sure to only add a few fish to the tank until the plants are established. Otherwise, the fish may destroy the plants before they can grow strong enough to withstand the occasional nibble.
Filed under Fish and Aquarium Care by on Jul 11th, 2008. Comment.
Pond plants are such an important part of almost any pond. These plants add beauty to the pond and aid in maintaining a healthy environment for fish. In addition, plants provide food and shelter for the creatures that may reside in the pond. Pond plants include deep water plants, oxygenating plants, marginal plants, floating plants and bog plants.
When you are choosing plants for your pond, you should find out how large the plants may grow. You need to do this to make sure your pond will not be too small to fit the plants you plan to grow in it. You should also check to see if the plants will be winter hardy in your area. Keeping pond plants alive in your home until spring arrives is a messy task. This information should be on the plant label, but, if not, talk to your local nursery employee.
If you have a small pond you may want to use pots to avoid having problems with plant roots. Fabric pond pots or mesh pots are best. Fabric pond pots allow air to pass through them, allowing the plants to grow in a natural and healthy way. Soil won’t leak through these pots so your pond will remain clear. Mesh pots allow the roots of the plants to receive enough water.
To properly plant your pond, you should be sure you choose plants for each layer of the pond. Each type of plant has a different use.
Deep water plants can help remove waste from the pond by using it as natural fertilizer. These plants grow quickly with the use of aquatic plant fertilizers, lots of oxygen and lots of sunlight. Good choices for deep water plants include Lotus, Water Lilies and Water Hawthorn. Lotus and Water Lilies like water that is at least two feet (60 cm) deep. Water Hawthorn like water from 3 to 24 inches (8cm to 60cm) deep.
Oxygenating plants provide oxygen, food and shelter for the creatures in the pond. They also compete with algae by absorbing nutrients and carbon dioxide that algae need to grow. These plants help maintain the water quality of the pond and also provide spawning areas for the fish. Some good choices for oxygenating plants include Hornwort, Water Milfoil, Water Violet and Water Buttercup.
Floating plants float atop the pond water and help provide shade for the creatures in the pond. Good choices for floating plants include Water Chestnut, Water Hyacinths, Water Soldier, Bladderwort and Water Lettuce. Avoid Duckweed as it grows quickly and will easily cover the entire surface of the pond. This will prevent photosynthesis from taking place and decrease the oxygen available for the plants and fish to survive.
Marginal plants grow in the shallower edges of the pond. They typically grow in 2 to 12 inches (5cm to 30cm) of water. Good choices for marginal plants include Sweet Flag, Marsh Marigold, Golden Buttons, Pickerel, Iris, Golden Sedge, Japanese Arrowhead, Bog bean and Lobelia. Cattails provide shelter, provide food and prevent erosion among other things. Unfortunately, they grow quickly and may be difficult to control. Avoid them unless you have the right resources and time to constantly prevent them from getting out of hand.
Bog plants grow around the edge of the rim and need lots of moisture. Bog plants also do well in wet mud. These plants prevent pond water from turning green because they filter surplus nutrients that algae need. Good choices include Primula, Astilbe and Lysimachia.
Filed under plants by on Jun 24th, 2008. Comment.
